Sunday in Paris with Ottolinger, Atlein, GmbH and Beautiful People
Sunday was a hectic day for Paris Fashion Week. The designers seemed to all have received a memo to spice up their presentations. After Balenciaga's show in the mud at Villepinte and Givenchy's show under umbrellas at the Jardin des Plantes, Ottolinger had its audience sitting on the floor, while Beautiful People sent them to the Arab World Institute’s ninth floor and Atlein started almost an hour late. In the evening the rain had finally stopped and we could finally catch our breath, at the GmbH show under the arcades of the Lycée Molière.
On the seventh day of the women's ready-to-wear fashion week for spring-summer 2023, Ottolinger invited its audience to contort themselves to sit on small mattresses placed on the floor, without sticking their feet out onto the carpet. The brand presented a fashion show from the bottom up, with blinding and flashing spotlights and techno music.
Models were in a hurry, rushing in with their wheeled suitcases in hand. They unleashed lively energy in sporty outfits, where clothes overlapped and intermingled. The brand's signature cords were everywhere, twirling around the body. In zippers in skirts, slashed trousers and small jackets, drawing a curved line in a tight strapped jumpsuit, or like an earthworm draped under the chest on a dress.
The bras are reduced to thin, intertwined strips, while the heeled pumps look like they have been stuck in a puddle of varnish paint and models carried long oblong shaped bags resembling a rifle carrier.
Atlein also had plenty of cords and laces, but this time with metal tips. They swung along the body, giving movement to the silhouette. Threaded into the structuring lines of the garments, they created a gathered effect up the arms and legs, and of course on the body in dresses, tops as well as tight-fitting skirts, highlighting the model's silhouette.
Antonin Tron's favorite jersey fabric hugged the body. It drapes and takes its shape like a second skin. Both comfortable and sensual, the outfits are eroticized with slits that reach the top of the thigh, bare backs and deep necklines, as well as orange swimming costumes and outfits with reptile prints.
In the evening, the silhouette stretches out in long sheaths and lights up, sometimes in a straight, matte black skirt that glows in the light, sometimes in shiny velvet dresses with coppery or metallic reflections as if dipped in bronze or silver.
At GmbH there was a zen and exotic atmosphere with incense and traditional Indian music, while the models nonchalantly walked through the arcades surrounding the large courtyard of the Lycée Molière in chic summer outfits, where denim mini-shorts, also available in black or gold leather and in vinyl, are combined with very elegant white shirts.
The duo comprising Pakistani-Norwegian photographer Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Turkish-German designer Serhat Isik took their inspiration from India this season, concocting a collection that is comfortable, fresh and cool.
Shirt and sarong ensembles were cut from delicate madras or sumptuous damask silk fabrics, with the shirt sometimes swapped for a simple white sweater. Satin maxi jackets were worn with metallic or neoprene wetsuit-like thigh-high boots and the same material was used to make very comfortable five-toed slippers. For the evening, the GmbH man or woman opts for a dinner jacket with mini shorts, wrapped in long fur coats or a long furry boa.
Beautiful People wants to transform violence and war into "joy, peace and harmony". It does this through chameleon-like clothing, starting with a series of military looks, which metamorphose one after the other in a dance choreography.
Army jackets can be turned inside out to become pretty jackets with wide collars, while other military like outfits can be unzipped in front and behind along the legs to become a skirt, the lining of a parka becomes an orange mackintosh coat. A khaki bodysuit has straps with a bag built into the lower back, from which a light nylon parachute emerges, taking on the appearance of a loose, impalpable dress.
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