Published
Mar 2, 2017
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Sportswear met space age in a bravura Paco Rabanne show

Published
Mar 2, 2017

Just when you thought that futurism had no future, along comes Julien Dossena with a knock-out collection for Paco Rabanne.
 

Paco Rabanne- Fall-Winter2017 - Womenswear - Paris© PixelFormula - PixelFormula


Striped-back sportswear met the house’s signature materials - metal mesh and chainmail – in a triumphant moment for the young French designer. With a front row of the world’s most important editors (Anna Wintour sat beside Nicolas Ghesquière); packs of retailers and oodles of influencers, the show made another matter official. Paco Rabanne under Dossena’s leadership is the must-see young designer show in fashion today.
 
Hyper-feminine compared to his more recent Space Oddity collections, the show featured superb bias-cut dresses in slinky silver. Mesh met knitwear in sizzling cocktails; silver surfer tanks were paired with mega-wide trousers. Dossena cuts with a scalpel, so self-assured is his vision. The clothes referenced the founder’s original metallic, space-age vision – many of them making noises as the models walked by. Yet they also looked hyper-contemporary . All anchored by classic brogues – done in hard metallic gold and silver.
 

Paco Rabanne - Fall-Winter2017 - Womenswear - Paris © PixelFormula - Pixelformula


Moreover, even if worn by an excellent young casting, the fashion could quite easily be worn by any older women.

“I wanted to clean everything up in general. I did not want anti-fashion but I also wanted to add just what was necessary. A mix of noble and normal fabrics, and a sharp pure silhouette,” Dossena told FashionNetwork.com.
 
Backed up by their owners - the Catalan Puig clan – the house opened a key flagship on rue Cambon, underlining their belief in Dossena. Expect a busy fall there at the cash register thanks to this powerful fashion statement.
 

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